Tuesday, March 6, 2007

The Seventh Wheel rolls home...

Well, the time is nigh. I am soon coming home.

Frankly, I can´t wait. As beautiful as it is here, and as relaxing and fun it has been, I must admit how much I miss my life at home. My many beloved friends, my cozy apartment, my fish, karate, and - yes - even my work. Actually, I miss work a lot. Strange? I don´t think so, really. I am so lucky to do what I do, and to work with such great people, all friends, it doesn´t feel like work...it´s my life. So, suffice to say, I am happy to settle back into my life again.

I officially touch down in Victoria at just after 10pm, tomorrow night (Wednesday). I am eagerly anticipating the waft of cool, salty air fill my lungs as I step onto home turf, once again.

Thanks for sharing this journey with me. I hope you enjoyed reading it as much as I enjoyed writing it for you.

Until the next adventure....Adios, Amigos y Amigas!

Monday, March 5, 2007

The Seventh Wheel takes on Tulum...

Well...doesn´t really TAKE ON Tulum...but it sounded catchy.

Anyway - today the whole fam damily did yet another road trip. This time, to two different places...the quite prominent and lovely town of Valladolid, and the amazing archaeological site of Tulum.

First, we set out early (6:30am) for Valladolid (http://www.valladolid.com.mx/eng/index.htm), then most of us slept until we got there. Pretty much standard issue for our daytrips. We first set eyes on this place as we were driving back from Chichen Itza, and after seeing the beauty of it, decided then and there to come back.


The place is so charming, it would be hard to not want to stop and spend an afternoon - or even a whole day - just wandering the seemingly endless streets, all bordered by pastel storefronts and lots of street vendors. (The pic at right is of these beautiful seats that are scattered across the main city square...very romantic! I´d
never seen anything like it.) Anyway, we got there after a lengthy two-hour drive, and were definitely relieved to get out of the van. We saw an interesting marketplace, and made a beeline there for breakfast.


At left is a tiny image of the market where we had breakfast. Kind of like a local food court. We headed for the back where it seemed most folks were eating. I was able to order for three people - almost completely in Spanish! :D I had these little yummy chicken tacos, rounds of soft tortilla with shredded chicken, some onion relish, a few peppers and some hot sauce. Very tasty - even for breakfast. They had the standard morning fare, too...huevos rancheros, etc. (I´m not really an egg fan, and they did have lunchy stuff...). While we were eating, a charming old man started to make his rounds with his guitar, looking for a table to play for. We heard him from way behind us approach, and his voice was so clear and melodi, and his playing wonderful! We hired him for a song or two, and even got to exchange a few words in Spanish. Very sweet person. Probably the hilight of the day for me.



After breakfast, we decided to split up for an hour of browsing on our own, but not before making friends with a very friendly dog who just drank up our pets and squidgy doggy-speak. (It broke my heart when she decided to follow us for a block before giving up...I couldn´t even watch as we walked away, her face all hopeful and her ears half-perked, as if to say ¨Where are you GOING?")

I beelined for the cathedral, across from the city square (which itself was between the block with the food court and the cathedral). Amazing. I was so old...and so lovely. I just walked around it at first, trying to get a feel for the place before going in. Surrounded by it´s red and white walled courtyard, I was both awed by it´s fortitude and charmed by it´s aged beauty. Oddly perfect was the fact that upon first approach, there was a white dove fluttering and picking its way across the ledge above the main entrance.



Inside, it was clear that the place was still in use today. I suppose I had expected it to be more of an historical site, open to observational visits but not still used for service. After walking through the great dark wood doors, the interior was quite plain, smooth walls of white stucco and well-polished bronze wood pews. Every few pews there were little alcoves with Saints, Jesus, and Virgin Mary statues residing within. The main tabernacle was somewhat simple compared to ones I´m used to, but behind it stood the most magnificent collection of similar statues held in huge, gracefully arched shelves of white stucco - all honeycombed together. And, through just a few small windows near the ceiling, the entire interior could be lit quite effectively. Not to be cliche, but the atmosphere was quite - well - peaceful.



After this, I wandered the side streets, just seeing what was there. The farther you got from the main city square, the more small businesses and street vendors there seemed to be. It was also clearly ¨local space¨, as I seemed to be the only white person roaming the area. Small women in white cotton dresses with flowered embroidery sold all manners of fresh fruits and vegetables on the sidewalk while a busy bustle of people strolled by, many of whom seemed to be checking out the various clothing, pharmacy and housewares stores. I actually saw a motorbike store, too! Pretty old models of bikes, but they looked brand new. I wanted to go in and check them out, but felt a bit self-concious given that there were only men in there, and I didn´t speak enough Spanish to explain that I actually ride. So, I kept on.


Many shop browses later, I met up again with my family. After a stop at another neighborhood marketplace (open farmers market-style food vendors and butchers booths), we all piled in the family van and headed off for Tulum (http://www.sacred-destinations.com/mexico/tulum.htm).




What can I say? It´s a legend for a reason. Breathtaking archaeological ruins of what was a major port city in its time, all set high above gorgeous turquoise ocean and protected by high cliffs. Unfortunately, you can´t actually step into or on the ruinds themselves (you could years ago), and must stay behind a partition to view the different stone castles and buildings. But I don´t regret this much, since it will help protect this place for many years to come. And it definitely does little to take away from the wonder of it.





Upon entering the area, I was delighted to notice that the warm air smelled like flowers. As I toured the grounds, I couldn´t help but feel amazed at how such a place was built so long ago. How it was planned, created, and lived in. The buildings and site layout are magnificent. Some still have their roofs, and many still show bas relief facades and faintest remains of painted frescos. Ancient walkways are still evident, and the entire place is encircled by a stone wall, with stone sentry buildings at the corners. It´s not hard to see why it was a major military strategic and trade route site. It really makes you wish you could have been there, or could go back in time to stand as an unseen observer, just to know what it was like, and to see it in all its intended splendour.

Just before we headed out, I found my way along a less-worn path to the edge of the outer wall, right at the cliff´s edge. Nobody else was there, and all that could be heard was the crashing waves and the breeze. The whole thing - the air, the cliffs, the water below, the green of the surrounding jungle - all in some sort of motion, transfixed me for a moment. It became the memory of Tulum that I will carry with me when I leave this place.

We ended the day with an equally long ride back to Playa del Carmen. This time, it was my turn to nap...which I did. And it felt great.


Tomorrow will be my last day here. I plan to spend it just hanging out, getting sun, and looking forward to my return home.


See you all soon!

Friday, March 2, 2007

The Seventh Wheel & Mayan megamonuments!



Hola, Everyone!

It's been a couple of days since my last entry, and a lot has happened.





On Wednesday, we went to the amazing ruins of Chichen Itza. Most people will have heard of this site as the home of the great pyramid where Mayan priests would carry out human sacrifices. Actually, yes, true...but the structure and the site itself are incredibly complex and hold much more significance than that.

We set out early in the morning and drove for quite a while - about three hours, actually. Most everyone slept, but i stayed awake. It was quite a peaceful drive, flanked on either side by jungle most of the way. Around 2 hours in, we stopped in a small village to have lunch at a roadside restaurant. I had chicken tacos, four little shredded chicken with onion and peppers concoctions rolled in tiny soft corn tortillas, with a scoop of white rice on the side. Very tasty! (The tacos tend to be small here, and filled only with meat. Sauce of your choice - usually a green or red chile sauce or pink onion relish - goes on top.)

We got there and it was a madhouse. People everywhere. It's quite the tourist trap, really - but thankfully hasn't been "Disneyfied". It's pretty good, just the site as restored a few decades ago. But with the sticky mid-day heat, no ocean breeze, and herds of tourists everywhere, if I had to do it again, I'd leave much earlier so that I could really take in the atmosphere in a cooler and more quiet context. Despite this, it's one of the most amazing places. The huge pyramid in the middle of the site, El Castillo (see pic above),really is as impressive as it looks in the picture. And HUGE! It's about as tall as the CIBC building in Vic, and about as wide...maybe wider.
Unfortunately, you can't climb it anymore because a tourist fell and was killed a year or two ago. (Luckily, I had already climbed it when I was here last, about 7 years ago. It was unbelievable!) Apparently, the pyramid was built so exactly that in October on a certain day, the shadows thrown by the sun's passage look like a gigantic shadow snake climbing and then slithering down the stairway. Also, the number of steps plus the top platform equal exactly 365 - set to correspond to the number of days in the Mayan calendar (where we also get our calendar system). There's so much I could say about this monument, but it would take up 500 blogs! So, just go to this site for more info on Chichen Itza: http://www.mysteriousplaces.com/mayan/TourEntrance.html

We also explored other spots at the site...the ballcourt, the temple of warriors, the marketplace, the cenote. Unfortunately, the rest of the group was getting tired, so we ended up missing the Nunnery and the Observatory. I was a bit pissed about this, but that's the thing about travelling with a group. You kinda have to go with the flow.

Anyway, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone looking for a rich and fascinating experience while here. In fact, I might rate it as equal to the fantastic natural scenery as the sole reasons to come here.

On the way back, we stopped at another cenote for a cooling swim. Cenotes are sinkholes where the ground has fallen in and an underground river flows through the cave itself. Some are accessable, and large enough and deep enough to hold underground "swimming holes" filled with amazing stalagmites, mineral formations, and cool, azure mineral lakes. This particular one is managed by a local village (some are not, are more commercialized), and as we arrived in our family van, we were immediately bombarded by a group of boys all vying to "watch the car" for us while we swam. They were incredibly persistant and spirited, and of course we couldn't say no. The village was small, with lots of locals selling their wares including freshly hacked green coconuts for a portable juice snack, handmade jewellery, and photo cards of the cenote. The cenote itself had obviously been used for a long time, the mineral formations quite worn and the interior with a walkway and lights installed and ropes for getting into the water. It was quite lovely after the hot, sticky day.

On the way back, we stopped for snacks and "cervesas" in another town on the way, and then continued on the long road home. Night fell, and of course everyone took another nap. I loved it. Quiet, peaceful, with the moonlight flooding into the van and the sounds of loud crickets and bugsong from the jungle outside filtering in the open window as we sped along the highway - so loud even the hum of the engine and tires couldn't drown it out! Quite lovely.

There's the gyst of that day.

Yesterday, it was an early morning run (much more wonderful since it was so early it hadn't gotten swelteringly hot yet, and most of the touristas were still asleep, leaving the beach mostly to me and a few other early risers), lounging poolside (the wind was vicious, blowing beachsand everywhere), and exploring the town a bit on my own. Got some lovely souvenirs from this small shop run by a local lady with lots of handcrafts. Also got a bit of a sunburn! (Not bad, though.) Saw out the day with making dinner for the whole crew and settling down to bed early.

Today - another easy day. Caught some great waves via bodyboard with my brother Jon at the beach this morning. MAN, that was fun! I haven't been on a bodyboard in, I dunno, maybe 15 years! Forgot how much I love it. Anyway - the waves wer pretty crazy, bowling me over more than a few times...now I will have the beautiful white sand of the Playa coming out of almost every orifice I have for the next few weeks, I'm sure. ;)

OK. Should probably sign off now. This one is about as long as it should be for now. More "manana...manana!"

Hugs to you all.
Over and out.

Tuesday, February 27, 2007

The Seventh Wheel's random observations...

* There are little black birds everywhere here. I suspect they are some sort of magpie. the are slender, sprightly, and incredibly clever. Very beautiful - such a glossy black that the relentless sunshine is reflected from their feathers as a lovely emerald blue. Their beaks and tails are so long and elegant, they seem to have the style of film-noir mobster molls, with their cigarette holders and their stylish, sharp hats.

* The only multigrain bread in the stores is "Wonder Wheat". It sticks to the roof of your mouth. I will venture into town tomorrow to find real bread. A little cafe we ate at the other day advertized the sale of its own delicious bread. (Of course, I think that most folks around here eat masa-based breads - tortillas, tostadas, etc. - which I am thoroughly enjoying.)

* This is the land of the salespeople. Every little shop has folks eager to sell you their wares. Some of them are downright cheeky in their efforts to get your business as you walk by! Last night, while walking back from dinner, one male shopowner cries out to us ladies "Hey, Barbies! Let's dance!" (I suppose a trio of blonde Gringos might look like an army of Barbies - though I was thoroughly unflattered with the comparison.)

* The local kids are so CUTE! The sounds of their play in neighboring homes (and the daycare right next door) is a pleasant aural backdrop. Clothing is quite gender-specific. The little boys tend to wear shorts that go below the knee, making them look like "mini-me's". The little girls always seem to be taller for some reason, wearing similar length skirts, always long and bouncy braids with all sorts of whispy tendrils escaping around their crown. They play into the night - the sounds of which my mother finds annoying ("Shoudn't they be in bed by now?")...but which I find to be quite lovely.

*There is always a lusciously cooling breeze off the ocean that tempers the thick, moist heat that blankets everything. I thank my lucky stars for it every moment.

*At the moment, I am alone in the condo. I went down for a "siesta", and it appears everyone has toddled off somewhere. I love it. Ah - peace.

The Seventh Wheel: Day 3.

Hola, Amigos e Amigas!

It's day three of the Fam Damily Vacation to Mexico, and I'm feeling fine.

The flight down was LOOOOONG. I woke up on Saturday morning at 4:30am, and didn't arrive in Playa del Carmen until 9:30 Victoria time. Yes - exhausting. Since then, it's been a struggle to get consistent internet connection, so I couldn't update my blog until now.

Conditions: high of 34 degrees, low of 26. Extremely humid. Sunny, some overcast, a smidge of rain now and again...but not expected for a few more days. Our rented condo is on the outskirts of the major tourist trap/hotel zone. My mother despises this fact, and has made it known roughly every hour on the hour since our arrival late Saturday night. Myself, I think it's A-OK. There's life everywhere, the phenomenal white sand and turquoise water beaches are but a couple of blocks away, and the best little beef taco joint around the corner (where the folks who run it are crazy friendly, help you with your horrible Spanish, and make amazing shredded meat delicacies for roughly a buck Canadian. Yay - and Yum!).

This morning, I went for a run along the water. It would have been totally gorgeous, save for the hoards of tourists littering the whole area. But the scenery, and the warm ocean breeze...nothing like it. (I will say - thank god for sweatproof SPF 30! I was out for an hour, and only got a slight bit of bronze. :) On my way off the beach heading for the condo, I see the most adorable, TEENY little latino boy crying, saying "Papa!" He barely came up to my thigh, and couldn't have been more than 3 years old. I bent down to talk to him, and saw nearby a lady laugh and nod at me, pointing to herself as she continued to bury another boy in the sand. His Mom? It was as if he was thinking it too far to walk to her alone. So I took his hand and lead him back to her, at which he seemed relieved and I left. So far, I'd have to say that was the hilight of the trip.

But there's more to come. I am eager to check out the local archaeological ruins - Chichen Itza, Tulum. The Cenotes, huge underground sinkhole caves. And the neighboring islands of Cozumel and Isla de Mujeres. Besides this, just do some snorkelling, some exploring of the townships, and enjoying the beach.

Now, if I can only stave off the urge to do "work" I foolishly brought with me (thinking I might get bored at night - which is entirely possible, seeing as I am the Seventh Wheel). ;)

That's it for now. Until tomorrow.

Hugs to all my friends at home. I miss you!

Saturday, February 24, 2007

The Seventh Wheel!

Hello, All!

I begin my journey in Blogland with a milestone that many others have surely braved before me, but to date has been a mystery to me: The Family Vacation.

You see, growing up we never had much cash to take off as a familial unit and do random recreational things. We pretty much spent our seasons and holidays at home. Not that I am complaining. I always loved cycling to the beach with my friend Kathy, hiking around the forest with the dog, and drawing on my bed when it was miserable out. And holidays were always a mix of food-centred celebration and expectation-based dread. But we didn't really know any different. Go away camping? Who did that? My first camping excursion was with a boyfriend after I had graduated from highschool.

Anyway - my Mom decided last year to take all of us to Mexico. Playa del Carmen, to be exact. I've been already. It's a lovely part of the world. Breathtaking land, resilient people, troubling social injustice to brace the americanized glamour. My family will have their partners. Christina has Chris there. Jon has Jamie. Mom has Norm. And I - well, I have my stuffed animal Mr. Bojangles, the pull-out couch, and the blessings of luck and curiousity.

So, tomorrow at 5:50am, I shall start the journey south, where I shall spend ten days with my family in a rented house on the beach.

Wish me sanity!