Anyway - today the whole fam damily did yet another road trip. This time, to two different places...the quite prominent and lovely town of Valladolid, and the amazing archaeological site of Tulum.
First, we set out early (6:30am) for Valladolid (http://www.valladolid.com.mx/eng/index.htm), then most of us slept until we got there. Pretty much standard issue for our daytrips. We first set eyes on this place as we were driving back from Chichen Itza, and after seeing the beauty of it, decided then and there to come back.
The place is so charming, it would be hard to not want to stop and spend an afternoon - or even a whole day - just wandering the seemingly endless streets, all bordered by pastel storefronts and lots of street vendors. (The pic at right is of these beautiful seats that are scattered across the main city square...very romantic! I´d
never seen anything like it.) Anyway, we got there after a lengthy two-hour drive, and were definitely relieved to get out of the van. We saw an interesting marketplace, and made a beeline there for breakfast.
At left is a tiny image of the market where we had breakfast. Kind of like a local food court. We headed for the back where it seemed most folks were eating. I was able to order for three people - almost completely in Spanish! :D I had these little yummy chicken tacos, rounds of soft tortilla with shredded chicken, some onion relish, a few peppers and some hot sauce. Very tasty - even for breakfast. They had the standard morning fare, too...huevos rancheros, etc. (I´m not really an egg fan, and they did have lunchy stuff...). While we were eating, a charming old man started to make his rounds with his guitar, looking for a table to play for. We heard him from way behind us approach, and his voice was so clear and melodi, and his playing wonderful! We hired him for a song or two, and even got to exchange a few words in Spanish. Very sweet person. Probably the hilight of the day for me.
After breakfast, we decided to split up for an hour of browsing on our own, but not before making friends with a very friendly dog who just drank up our pets and squidgy doggy-speak. (It broke my heart when she decided to follow us for a block before giving up...I couldn´t even watch as we walked away, her face all hopeful and her ears half-perked, as if to say ¨Where are you GOING?")I beelined for the cathedral, across from the city square (which itself was between the block with the food court and the cathedral). Amazing. I was so old...and so lovely. I just walked around it at first, trying to get a feel for the place before going in. Surrounded by it´s red and white walled courtyard, I was both awed by it´s fortitude and charmed by it´s aged beauty. Oddly perfect was the fact that upon first approach, there was a white dove fluttering and picking its way across the ledge above the main entrance.
Inside, it was clear that the place was still in use today. I suppose I had expected it to be more of an historical site, open to observational visits but not still used for service. After walking through the great dark wood doors, the interior was quite plain, smooth walls of white stucco and well-polished bronze wood pews. Every few pews there were little alcoves with Saints, Jesus, and Virgin Mary statues residing within. The main tabernacle was somewhat simple compared to ones I´m used to, but behind it stood the most magnificent collection of similar statues held in huge, gracefully arched shelves of white stucco - all honeycombed together. And, through just a few small windows near the ceiling, the entire interior could be lit quite effectively. Not to be cliche, but the atmosphere was quite - well - peaceful.
After this, I wandered the side streets, just seeing what was there. The farther you got from the main city square, the more small businesses and street vendors there seemed to be. It was also clearly ¨local space¨, as I seemed to be the only white person roaming the area. Small women in white cotton dresses with flowered embroidery sold all manners of fresh fruits and vegetables on the sidewalk while a busy bustle of people strolled by, many of whom seemed to be checking out the various clothing, pharmacy and housewares stores. I actually saw a motorbike store, too! Pretty old models of bikes, but they looked brand new. I wanted to go in and check them out, but felt a bit self-concious given that there were only men in there, and I didn´t speak enough Spanish to explain that I actually ride. So, I kept on.Many shop browses later, I met up again with my family. After a stop at another neighborhood marketplace (open farmers market-style food vendors and butchers booths), we all piled in the family van and headed off for Tulum (http://www.sacred-destinations.com/mexico/tulum.htm).
What can I say? It´s a legend for a reason. Breathtaking archaeological ruins of what was a major port city in its time, all set high above gorgeous turquoise ocean and protected by high cliffs. Unfortunately, you can´t actually step into or on the ruinds themselves (you could years ago), and must stay behind a partition to view the different stone castles and buildings. But I don´t regret this much, since it will help protect this place for many years to come. And it definitely does little to take away from the wonder of it.Upon entering the area, I was delighted to notice that the warm air smelled like flowers. As I toured the grounds, I couldn´t help but feel amazed at how such a place was built so long ago. How it was planned, created, and lived in. The buildings and site layout are magnificent. Some still have their roofs, and many still show bas relief facades and faintest remains of painted frescos.
Ancient walkways are still evident, and the entire place is encircled by a stone wall, with stone sentry buildings at the corners. It´s not hard to see why it was a major military strategic and trade route site. It really makes you wish you could have been there, or could go back in time to stand as an unseen observer, just to know what it was like, and to see it in all its intended splendour.Just before we headed out, I found my way along a less-worn path to the edge of the outer wall, right at the cliff´s edge. Nobody else was there, and all that could be heard was the crashing waves and the breeze. The whole thing - the air, the cliffs, the water below, the green of the surrounding jungle - all in some sort of motion, transfixed me for a moment. It became the memory of Tulum that I will carry with me when I leave this place.
We ended the day with an equally long ride back to Playa del Carmen. This time, it was my turn to nap...which I did. And it felt great.
Tomorrow will be my last day here. I plan to spend it just hanging out, getting sun, and looking forward to my return home.
See you all soon!
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